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Black Sail, Ennerdale - Coast to Coast

More Articles in the Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite subsection

Ennerdale Forest nearing Black Sail

Nearing Black Sail on the Forestry Road

Black Sail YHA, Ennerdale, Coast to Coast

Black Sail YHA — also known as Ennerdale YHA — is often described as the most remote youth hostel in England. Tucked away at the eastern end of Ennerdale Valley, it lies four miles beyond Ennerdale Water, nestled just below the flanks of Haystacks and only a hundred yards from the River Liza. Above it, the summit plateau of Haystacks shelters Innominate Tarn, a peaceful tarn immortalised by Wainwright.

The hostel sits at the threshold between managed forest and wild fellside, directly on the Coast to Coast path. Though a rough forestry road links Black Sail to the Bowness Knott car park, it is not open to public vehicles, and most visitors arrive on foot. Its isolation enhances its charm.

Black Sail serves as a key node in the web of Lakeland routes. The Coast to Coast path climbs
Seavy Knott and continues toward Honister. The Black Sail Pass offers passage through the crags of Looking Stead and Kirk Fell into the Mosedale Valley, eventually reaching Wasdale Head. From the hostel, hikers can also ascend to Green Gable, Brandreth, and Base Brown, or cross Warnscale Bottom to Haystacks and Fleetwith Pike.

Black Sail Below Haystacks


Black Sail YHA rests below Haystacks, close to where the valley floor begins to rise towards the surrounding fells. Having descended Gamlin End and followed the route from Scarth Gap into Ennerdale, the walker reaches the hostel at a natural turning point in the journey. Behind, High Crag and High Stile rise above the ground already crossed; ahead, the Coast to Coast continues through upper Ennerdale before climbing towards Seavy Knott and Grey Knotts.

Black Sail Pass & Kirk Fell Ravine


Black Sail Pass rises south from the head of Ennerdale through the steep ravine between Kirk Fell and Pillar, following Sail Beck towards the watershed with Wasdale. Although prominent from this part of the valley, it is not the Coast to Coast route: from Black Sail the Coast to Coast continues eastwards through upper Ennerdale, before turning away from the River Liza to begin the climb beside Loft Beck towards Seavy Knott and Grey Knotts.

Wild Ennerdale & Pillar in Mist


Beyond Black Sail, upper Ennerdale feels increasingly remote as the enclosing fells rise steeply above the River Liza. Across the valley, Pillar and the adjoining heights of Looking Stead dominate the southern skyline, their upper slopes often caught by passing cloud and mist. With the forest road now behind, the Coast to Coast enters one of its wildest Lakeland stretches, following the valley deeper into the fells before turning towards Loft Beck and the climb to Seavy Knott.

Coast to Coast - Liza's Drumlins


A succession of rounded drumlins dominates the floor of upper Ennerdale, their smooth forms contrasting with the much steeper fells surrounding the valley. The Coast to Coast descends through this glacial landscape towards the River Liza, which is barely visible between the folds of ground below. After reaching the valley floor, the route turns towards Loft Beck and begins the sustained climb towards the top of Seavy Knott and Grey Knotts.

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Black Sail Pass above Liza Beck in Ennerdale, viewed from the Coast to Coast path as it rises toward the high fells between Pillar and Haystacks. Forestry plantations on the upper slopes of Ennerdale, showing the contrasting greens of larch, spruce and native woodland along the valley sides near Black Sail. Patchwork of new growth and mature trees in Ennerdale’s rewilding area, part of the Wild Ennerdale regeneration scheme near the Coast to Coast route. Black Sail Youth Hostel framed by the surrounding Ennerdale fells, the most remote YHA in England and a welcome refuge for Coast to Coast walkers crossing the pass.